津门网曾毅凉山谣

　　山悠悠雪皑皑，此时此处是凉山。
　　中国西南部的金沙江与大渡河在这里汇合，勾勒出银杏状的大、小凉山，形成一个封闭、独立的地理空间。这里群峰耸峙、山势峻峭、河流纵横、峡谷深遽，自然条件十分复杂，是中国最大的彝族聚居地。
　　彝族是一个忧伤而古朴的民族，古时因战败被迫迁徙到封闭的深山里。传说彝族人到大凉山时，只带了萝卜和苦荞的种子，在原始森林里开垦出了自己的家园。早期的凉山彝族是一个游猎民族，在茫茫的原始森林，赶着成群的猎狗游猎在群山之间。他们根据动植物和人类生活节律的相关性，创造出了属于凉山的物候历，形成了自己的文字、宗教、社会制度，保留了许多奇异而神秘的象术占卜习俗，其中的毕摩文化则是彝族文化中最核心的部分。
　　自古以来，凉山人不受任何政权控制，也不属于西藏神权管辖，在西南地区呈遗世独立的状态。1956年以后，封闭的大凉山从奴隶社会过渡到社会主义社会，在不到半个世纪的时间里，跨越了三种社会形态。
　　作为一个卓越智慧的民族，受千百年来形成的精神枷锁束缚，在险恶的自然环境中一直处在＂原始贫困＂的生存状态。新中国成立后，大凉山开始逐步得到治理改造，但因严酷艰难的自然环境和漫长的奴隶制度导致现代化进程非常缓慢。直到2015年11月29日，《中共中央国务院关于打赢脱贫攻坚战的决定》发布，大凉山这片土地和彝族人的生存现状才开始得到彻底改善。
　　2016年1月，当我去大凉山拍摄的时候，适逢冬季大雪封山，同行者有人感叹道：＂雪后的凉山美成诗＂。我则以为：＂雪后的凉山是一首悲凉的歌。君不见，山上虽积雪，湖边已花开＂。
　　我们跨岭走寨，就在太阳偶尔露脸的时候，路遇一位毕摩正在为刚刚逝去亲人的孩子做法事。毕摩身着法衣，头戴斗笠，吟唱着古老的经文。那吟唱或高亢、或低沉、或恐惧、或神秘……变幻无穷，触人心动。这古老的声音仿佛用彝族古老的文化密码诠释着彝人的宗祖与昆裔、岁月与今世、神秘与辉煌、苍凉与期冀，在现代文明的冲击碰撞下所面临的困惑与迷茫……
　　Ballad of Liangshan Mountain
　　The mountains are long and are covered in the vast white snow, and at this time it is Liangshan mountain.
　　The Jinsha River and the Dadu River in southwest China converge here, outlining the large and small Liangshan Mountains in the shape of ginkgo biloba, forming a closed and independent geographical space. With towering peaks, steep mountains, rivers and deep canyons, the natural conditions are very complex, and it is the largest habitation of Yi nationality in China.
　　The Yi nationality were a sad and primitive people who were forced to migrate to the closed mountains in ancient times due to their defeat in battle. Legend has it that when the Yi people came to Da liang mountain , they only brought the seeds of turnips and buckwheat and reclaimed their homeland in the primeval forest. The early Liangshan Yi nationality were a nomadic people, driving herds of hunting dogs between the mountains in the vast primeval forest. According to the relevance of animals and plants and the rhythm of human life, they created a phenological calendar belonging to Liangshan, formed their own writing, religion, and social system, and preserved many mysterious customs, of which the Bimo culture is the most core part of the Yi culture.
　　Since ancient times, the Liangshan people have not been controlled by any political power, nor have they fallen under the theocratic jurisdiction of Tibet, and have been in a state of independence in the southwest region. After 1956, the closed Daliangshan transitioned from a slave society to a socialist society, spanning three social forms in less than half a century.
　　As a nationality with outstanding wisdom, constrained by the spiritual shackles formed over thousands of years, it has been living in a state of ＂primitive poverty＂ in a dangerous natural environment. After the founding of the People＂s Republic of China, Daliang Mountain began to be gradually renovated, but the modernization process was very slow due to the harsh and difficult natural environment and the long slavery. It was not until November 29, 2015, when ＂The Decision of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of China and the State Council on Winning the Fight against Poverty＂ was released that the living conditions of the land and the Yi people in Daliang Mountain began to be completely improved.
　　When I went to Daliang Mountain to photograph in January 2016, it coincided with the snow in winter to close the mountain, and some of the companions sighed: ＂Liangshan after the snow is beautiful into poetry!＂ However, in my eyes : ＂Liangshan after the snow is a sad song.＂ Although there is snow on the mountain, the flowers have bloomed by the lake! We continued to walk across the ridge, and just as the sun occasionally showed its face, we came across a Bimo doing religious rites. Bimo was dressed in a robe, wearing a bucket hat and chanting ancient scriptures. That chant is either high-pitched, or low, or fearful, or mysterious... The changes are endless and touching. This ancient voice seems to use the ancient cultural code of the Yi nationality to interpret the ancestors and descendants, history and reality, mystery and glory, desolation and remoteness, and the confusion faced under the impact of modernization……
　　津门网作者 曾毅 中国著名摄影家、策展人和社会活动家，山东工艺美术学院资深教授、享受国务院政府特殊津贴、意大利佛罗伦萨国立美术学院荣誉院士，丝路国家摄影组织国际联盟创始人。