WalkingAroundtheBoundaryStone,
一脚踏三省三省一条街
ThreeProvincesinOneStreetTravellingtoThreeProvincesWithOneStep
绕着石头转一圈瞬间跨越鄂豫陕
WalkingAroundtheBoundaryStone,OneCanReachHubei,HenanandShaanxiProvinces
游客在三省界碑亭留影Touriststakephotosinthepavilionatthejunctionofthreeprovinces
三棱石界碑Athreesidedboundarystone
荆紫关镇明清一条街MingandQingStreet,JingziguanTown
古镇上的山陕会馆ShanxiShaanxiGuildHallintheancienttown
楚天都市报极目新闻记者周萍英
翻译:赵玉蕾,卫拉,尹珩(湖北大学)
JimuNewsReporter:ZhouPingying
Translators:ZhaoYulei,LisaM。K,YinHeng(HubeiUniversity)
在中国版图上,有这样一个神奇的地方。在这里,一条名为白浪的古街,是三省分界线,全国少有。一脚踏三省朝秦暮楚等响当当的地域文化招牌,让这个处于三省交界点的小镇名声在外。湖北的楚文化、陕西的秦文化、河南的中原文化,在这里世代碰撞,相互交融。近日,极目新闻记者打卡了这个中国少有的神奇之地。
Chinaishometoanunusualgeographicalphenomenon。AnancientstreetnamedBailang(meaningwhitewaveinChinese)istheborderlineofthreeprovinces,namelyHubei,ShaanxiandHenanProvinces,andisararesightinthewholecountry。ExpressionslikeTraveltothreeprovinceswithonestep,EnjoyboththeQincultureandChuculturehavebecomelocalculturalidentitiesthathavemadethetownlocatedatthejunctionofthreeprovincesfamous。Forgenerations,thistownhaswitnessedtheconvergenceofChucultureofHubeiProvince,QincultureofShaanxiProvinceandtheYellowRivercultureofHenanProvince。Recently,aJimuNewsreporterpaidthisuniquelocationavisit。
一块陨石,三省界碑
AMeteoriteActsasABoundaryMarkerforThreeProvinces
从湖北十堰市区出发,约120公里外便是郧阳区白浪镇。车辆驶上该镇,前一分钟,路上门店还写着湖北某店,后一分钟,越过一座牌坊,便是河南南阳某机械公司的大招牌。路上的车牌鄂、陕、豫交织,形成独特的风景。
StartingfromShiyanCityofHubeiProvince,BailangtowninYunyangDistrictisabout120kmaway。Oneminutebeforearrivinginthetown,onecouldseeastoreontheroadsidenamedXXXstoreofHubei;butjustoneminutelater,abigsignhungforamachinerycompanyofNanyang,Henanprovince。VehicleswithplatenumbersofHubei,ShaanxiandHenanprovincescanallbefoundinthistown,creatingauniquescene。
跟着导航来到三省界碑,一座三角形的青石小亭矗立在路中间,亭中有块三棱大理石的地标,三面分别刻着秦、豫、鄂。不少游客在亭子中三向转体拍照,操着三省不同口音。
FollowingthenavigationsystemtotheThreeProvinceBoundaryStone,atriangularbluestonepavilioncanbeseenstandinginthemiddleoftheroad。Inthepavilion,thereisathreesidedmarblelandmarkengravedwithcharactersofQin(ShaanxiProvince),Yu(HenanProvince),andEr(HubeiProvince)oneachofthreesides。Visitorsenjoygoingaroundthestoneandtakephotostogetafeelofthethreeprovinces。
有趣的是,以亭子为中心,东南角一座白瓦灰墙、翘角飞檐的老院子挂着三省客栈的牌子。南角几间贴黄色瓷砖的两层楼房的商店,挂着湖北综合门市部的招牌。而西北边的白色瓷砖墙面的两层楼门口,立着陕西农家乐的牌子。三户邻居紧紧挨着,走过去仅几米远,却分属于湖北省十堰市郧阳区白浪镇、河南省南阳市淅川县荆紫关镇、陕西省商洛市商南县湘河镇。
Evenmoreinteresting,inthesoutheastcornerofthepavilion,anoldwhitetiledcourtyardwithgreywallsandangledeaveshangsasignofThreeProvincesInn;inthesoutherncorner,ayellowtiledtwostoryshopcarriesasignofHubeiSaleDepartment;andinthenorthwest,atthedoorofthetwostorybuildingwithwhitetilewall,asignofShaanxiAgritainmenthasbeenputup。Thoughthethreearenextdoorneighborswithonlyafewmetersawayfromeachother,theybelongtodifferentadministrativeregions:BailangTown,YunyangDistrict,ShiyanCity,HubeiProvince;JingziguanTown,XichuanCounty,NanyangCity,HenanProvince;XiangheTown,ShangnanCounty,ShangluoCity,ShaanxiProvince。
在没有这个界碑之前,三省居民为了争地界纠纷不断。河南淅川县荆紫关镇文化服务中心工作人员张军研究当地文化多年,他提起当地一个传说。传说突然有一天,从天上掉下一块陨石,村民们认为这是上天的旨意,掉下石头划清界线,提醒人们和谐共处。从此,当地人们融洽相处,并在落下石头的地方建了一座庙。然而,随着时间的推移,这座庙宇已不复存在。
Beforethesetupoftheboundarymarker,residentsofthethreeprovinceswereconstantlyindisputeoverlandboundaries。ZhangJun,astaffmemberattheJingziguanculturalservicecenterinXichuanCounty,HenanProvince,hasstudiedthelocalcultureformanyyears。Heexplainedtothereportersalocallegend。Oneday,ameteoritefellfromthesky。Thevillagersbelieveditwasthewillofheavenandthestonedroppedtodrawaline,remindingpeopletolivetogetherinharmony。Sincethen,thelocalpeoplehavelivedinharmonyandbuiltatemplewherethestonefell。Overtime,however,thetempleisnownolongerinexistence。
1987年,三省乡镇自发集资,在此建立了一座大理石塔式碑。碑文记载,以碑为中心,正南180度属湖北,东南105度属河南,西北75度属陕西。
In1987,neighbouringtownsofthethreeprovincesraisedfundsbytheirownwilltobuildamarbletowermonument。Accordingtotheinscription,withthemonumentasthecenter,180degreesduesouthbelongstoHubei,105degreessoutheastbelongstoHenan,and75degreesnorthwestbelongstoShaanxi。
再后来,随着此处名气渐大,来此旅游的游客渐多。2010年,河南荆紫关镇独资改造升级了三省碑。游客踏着三棱石,体验一脚踏三省的豪迈。
Laterasthetowngainedpopularity,increasingnumberoftouristsvisitedthelocation。In2010,JingziguanTown,HenanProvincerebuilttheThreeProvincialBoundaryMarkerinsoleproprietorship,wheretouristscanwalkaroundthethreesidedstoneandexperiencethreeprovinceswithonesinglestep。
据介绍,中国版图三省交界之地共有40余处,不过,一般地界都以一条河一座山为界,此处应是全国少有明确界点的三省交界处。
InChinasterritory,thereareover40boundaryareasofthreeprovinces。Butitisraretoseesuchaclearboundarysincethegeneralboundaryofprovincesisusuallyariveroramountain。
一家热闹,三省快乐
EnjoyHappinessandCustomsofTheThreeProvincesinOneFamily
恰恰由于地理位置的特殊性,此处曾有过别处不一样的繁华,也有过三不管的尴尬。当地村民说,在计划经济时代,白浪街上三省商店鼎立,来此购物可买到三省特色商品。也曾有段时间此地赌风挺盛,赌客们远远看到河南的警车开来,齐刷刷跨两步就到了陕西或者湖北地带。现在好了,为了管理方便,三省采取治安、消防等联防联治的管理方式,使得该地呈现和谐安定的局面。张军说。
Preciselybecauseofitsuniquelocation,BailangStreetwasprosperouslikenootherplaceelse;butwasaninconvenientplacetogovernforlocaladministration。Accordingtolocalvillagers,duringtheplannedeconomyperiod(around1950sto1980sinChina),residentscouldbuyspecialtygoodsfromthethreeprovincesfromshopsinBailangStreet。Therewasalsoatimewhengamblingwasprevalent。WhengamblerssawpolicecarsfromHenanprovincecoming,theywouldescapetoShaanxiorHubeiprovincewithinjustafewsteps。ZhangJunsaid:Itismuchbetternow。Thethreeprovinceshavenowimplementedjointpreventionandmanagementmeasuresinpublicsecurityandfirecontrol。Itsnowsaferandmoreharmoniousthanitwasbefore。
三省人们操着不同口音,拥有不同的饮食文化和风俗。河南人以面食为主食,走到河南荆紫关镇的饭馆,不特殊交待,店主默认端上面条作主食。而在湖北地界的饭店,则以米饭为主食。而在陕西地界,则以羊肉泡馍等为主食。在文化生活方面,河南人喜欢听豫剧,湖北人则爱听汉剧,陕西人则喜欢听秦腔。三省人交融。婚丧嫁娶吃个酒席,往往一桌坐上了两三省的人,操着不同的口音、划着不同的酒拳,场面十分热闹。
Peoplefromthethreeprovinceshavedifferentaccents,foodculturesandcustoms。Henanpeopleregardglutenousfoodastheirstaplefood。IfacustomerwalksintoarestaurantinJingziguanTown,Henanprovince,theownerwillassumethattheyareorderingnoodlesbydefault。HoweverinarestaurantinHubeiProvince,peoplegenerallyeatrice。InShaanxiprovince,peopleregardmuttonandbreadpiecesinsoupastheirstaplefood。Whenitcomestoculturallife,HenanpeopleenjoylisteningtoHenanOpera,whileHubeipeoplepreferHanOperaandShaanxipeoplelikeShaanxiOpera。Duetotheuniquelocation,itsverycommonforpeoplefromallthreeprovincestomeethere,especiallyatweddingceremoniesorfunerals。There,peoplefromtwoorthreeprovincescanbefoundsittingaroundonetable,speakingdifferentdialectsandplayingdifferentgames。Suchasceneisverylively。
在贾平凹的散文《白浪街》中,非常生动形象地对白浪街的风土人情进行了描述。提到有位陕西老汉养了八个闺女,三个嫁河南,三个嫁湖北,两人留陕西。每到子女给他祝寿的时候,女儿、女婿都来,一家人南腔北调语音不同,酸辣咸甜口味有别,一家热闹,三省快乐。
JiaPingwa,afamousChinesewriter,oncevividlydescribedthelocalcustomsofBailangStreetinhisessayBailangStreet。Intheessay,hementionedthatanoldmaninShaanxiProvinceraisedeightdaughters,threeofwhommarriedtoHenan,threetoHubei,andtwotoShaanxi。Everytimehischildren,includinghisdaughtersandsonsinlawcamebackhometocelebratehisbirthday,theyspokedifferentdialectsandhaddifferentpreferencesforfood。There,differentcustomsofthethreeprovincesconvergedinonefamily。
如今,在此生活的三省人民口音和生活习俗渐渐接近,白浪街也成为旅游打卡热门地。采访当天,来自陕西的向先生告诉极目新闻记者,这是三省福气、灵气聚集之地,第一来看看这个神奇的地方,第二个也是趁着春节假期带着家里人来沾沾福气。
Now,peoplefromthethreeprovinceslivingherehavegraduallydevelopedsimilaraccentsandcustoms,andBailangStreethasbecomeafamoustouristdestination。Intheinterview,Mr。XiangfromShaanxiProvincetoldJimuNewsreporter:BailangStreetisaplacethatgathersgoodfortuneandcharmofthethreeprovinces。ThereasonIcameherewithmyfamilyduringSpringFestivalvacationisbecauseIwanttoenjoythisuniqueplaceandwantmyfamilytoreceivegoodluck。
一座古镇,见证繁华
AnAncientTownWitnessedProsperity
到三省交界处游玩,最不可错过的是荆紫关古镇。
TheancientJingziguanTown,locatedatthejunctionofHubeiProvince,HenanProvinceandShaanxiProvince,isamustsee。
荆紫关,一个饱含诗情画意的名字,位于河南省淅川县西北部。明末清初,丹江漕运鼎盛,来自全国各地的商行在荆紫关落脚,能工巧匠在此留下众多建筑。这里至今保存着一条明清长街,风貌沧桑,韵味十足,独具特色。
Jingziguan,anidyllicnameinChinese,islocatedinthenorthwestofXichuanCounty,HenanProvince。ThelateMingandearlyQingDynastieswitnessedtheheydayofwatertransportalongtheDanjiangRiver,whichflowedthroughthethreeprovinces。BusinessmenfromalloverthecountrysettledinJingziguanandskilledcraftsmenleftmanyhistoricalbuildingshere。Uptonow,alongstreetwhichwasbuiltintheMingandQingDynastiesisstillwellpreserved,fullofcharmanduniqueness。
荆紫关之所以称关,一是它地处陕豫交界处,关外是八百里秦川,关内是连接中原大地的南阳盆地,是由中原入陕东南之要道。二是因为荆紫关所在地,战国时属楚国,楚王派太子荆来镇守,遂称荆子口。三是由于此地漫山遍野盛开着紫色的紫荆花,清代又改称荆紫关,寓意紫气东来。明清时期这里商业高度繁荣,也因此有了小上海之称。
TherearevariousreasonsforwhyJingziguaniscalledguan(meaningpassinChinese)。First,itislocatedattheborderofShaanxiProvinceandHenanProvince。OutsidethepassisavastplaininShaanxi,andinsidethepassistheNanyangBasin,whichconnectsHenantothesoutheastofShaanxiProvince。Second,asthelocationofJingziguanbelongedtoChuStateintheWarringStatesPeriod(476221B。C。),thekingofChusentthecrownprinceJingtoguardit,andhencegraduallycametobecalledJingzikou。Third,asthemountainsandfieldswerecoveredwiththepurpleBauhinia,JingzikouwasrenamedtheJingziguan,asthecharacterziinJingziguanmeanspurpleandindicatesgoodluckinChineseculture。DuringtheMingandQingDynasties,businessherewashighlyprosperous,thusearningitsnameLittleShanghai。
从荆紫关的南门进入,扑面而来的是一股非常古朴的气息,楼亭廊阁,无一不是明清时期的古建筑,这些建筑基本上原汁原味地保留着明清时代的建筑原貌,临街的房屋一栋挨一栋,几乎都是用黑色木门,昼开夜闭,便于做生意,那些屋檐廊角包括墙上的彩绘都保存非常完好。
EnteringthroughthesouthgateofJingziguan,oneisgreetedbythesimplicityandantiquenessofthebuildings。Manyancientbuildingsincludingpavilions,terracesandtowers,builtintheMingandQingdynasties,stillboasttheiroriginallooks。Thehousesfacingthestreetarealmostallwithblackwoodendoors,whichareopenduringthedaytimeforbusiness。Theeavesandpaintingsonthewallsareallinexcellentcondition。
明清一条街古建筑群享誉全国,形成于公元1772年前后,该街全长五里,依山傍水,融南北建筑风格和自然特点为一体。街道两旁有房舍楼阁2200多间,1500余间门面房均为清代建筑,房屋建筑雕梁画栋,古色古香。
AnancientarchitecturalcomplexnamedMingandQingStreethasgainednationalreputation。Itwasbuiltaround1772A。D。,stretchingfor2。5km。Situatedclosetohillsandrivers,itisamixofarchitecturestylesandnaturalfeaturesofthenorthandsouth。Therearemorethan2200housesandpavilionsonbothsidesofthestreet,andmorethan1500facaderooms,whichwerebuiltintheQingDynasty。Thesebuildings,withpaintedbeamsandcarvedpillars,areextraordinarilyantique。
古街现今还保存着山陕会馆、禹王宫、江西馆、平浪宫等典型建筑和刘家大院、陈家大院等旧时富商住宅;古码头、古关门、古朴的吊脚楼与其他古建筑群错落有致、相映生辉。2001年,明清一条街被国务院批准为全国重点文物保护单位。《阮氏三雄》《包公》《汉魂》《内乡县衙》等影视作品先后在这里拍摄。
Today,sometypicalbuildings,includingtheShanxiShaanxiGuildHall,YuwangPalace,JiangxiHall,PinglangPalaceandtheoldresidencesofwealthymerchantssuchastheLiuFamilyCourtyardandtheChenFamilyCourtyardhaveallbeenwellpreserved。Theancientwharves,doors,simplestiltedbuildings,andotherancientcomplexareexquisitelylocated。In2001,MingandQingStreetwasapprovedbyTheStateCouncilaskeyhistoricalandculturalsitesundernationallevelprotection。FilmandtelevisionworkssuchasTheThreeHeroesSurnamedRuan,BaoGong,TheSoulofHanandTheCountyGovernmentofNeixiangwereshothereinsuccession。
如今,这座古镇依然友善地张开双臂,欢迎各地的游客慕名而来,游古街,观遗存,赏民俗,品美食,体验一脚踏三省的豪迈,感受三省的特色文化和习俗风情。
Today,theancienttownopensitsarmswithfriendliness,welcomingtouristsfromallovertheworldtovisittheancientstreets,viewtherelics,appreciatethefolkcustoms,tastethefoodandexperiencethecultureandcustomsofthethreeprovinces。
(来源:极目新闻)
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